A Flâneur’s Guide to the Luberon: markets, vintage cars, and café life
- kristy7048
- Aug 9
- 3 min read
Last September, we spent a few days winding through hills of the Luberon in a vintage Citroën 2CV — the kind of car that makes strangers smile and locals give you an approving nod. There’s no better way to explore this pocket of Provence than slowly, with windows down and each village revealing its own charms.

The Villages
Gordes
Perched dramatically on a hillside, Gordes is the Luberon’s darling. Cobbled lanes spill down from the château, and stone buildings glow in the late afternoon light. This village is a great base for your time in the region, and I highly recommend a stay at Airelles Gordes, La Bastide. This jewel box of a hotel is right in the center of town and has panoramic terraces for sunset cocktails. For lunch, La Bastide de Pierres offers simple Italian done impeccably well — think handmade pasta and local wine.
Roussillon
Just a short drive from Gordes, Roussillon is all about color. The ochre cliffs here range from burnt orange to deep crimson, and the village streets seem painted to match. Wander through the artisan shops, then take the Ochre Trail to see the landscape’s surreal palette up close.

Lourmarin
Situated at the base of Luberon’s hills, Lourmarin feels almost Mediterranean in mood. Shaded café terraces, art galleries, and boutiques make it an ideal lunch stop. The château is worth a visit, and the Friday market is a delight for food lovers — more intimate than the larger ones, but just as flavorful. If you'd like to base yourself here, Le Moulin Lourmarin is an excellent choice.
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Known as the “Venice of Provence” for its canals and waterwheels, this is also one of Europe’s top antique hubs. Sundays here are pure treasure-hunting heaven — from rustic farm tables to fine silver and vintage linens. We picked up a vintage ceramic platter of Basque origin, and it is my favorite find on this trip! This is your chance to daydream about the Provençal home you might someday fill.

The Markets
One of the pleasures of a Luberon trip is letting the weekly markets dictate your route. We timed ours to coincide with the famous Sunday market in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue — part farmers’ market, part antique fair, part social gathering. Stock up on chèvre, tapenade, fresh peaches, and maybe an antique treasure to memorialize your visit. The Friday market in Lourmarin is also worth a visit.
Routing, Pacing & Time of Year
Base yourself in Gordes or Bonnieux to keep drives short and scenic. We chose the latter and stayed at Capelongue. Perched on a hill with stunning views of the Luberon, this hotel is the picture of Provençal charm and elegance.
Give yourself three to four days to see each village without rushing. We recommend visiting in late May or September — warm days, golden light, and fewer crowds. Summer has its magic (lavender season!), but book several months in advance and be prepared for busy roads.

Private Experiences with Flâneur Travel Co.
For those who prefer to go beyond the guidebook, we can arrange:
Private 2CV tours with a local driver who knows the most photogenic backroads and secret picnic spots.
Market-to-table cooking classes with a Provençal chef, starting with a morning market visit.
Antique sourcing tours in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue with a local expert who can ship your finds home.
Private vineyard tastings in the Ventoux or Luberon appellations, often in family-owned estates not open to the public.

The Luberon rewards slow travel. It’s not a place to tick boxes — it’s a place to savor: a glass of rosé in the shade, a winding road in a charming car, the scent of thyme and lavender in the air. And if you ask us, there’s no better way to see it than with the kind of thoughtful, well-paced itinerary that lets you truly flâner.
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